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Armor/AFV: Techniques
From Weathering to making tent rolls, discuss it here.
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redrsxs
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: December 18, 2009
KitMaker: 13 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 02:37 AM UTC
Hi,
I recently bought Tamiya glue and what a difference with the Humbrol one. Better adhesion in less time. I saw Tamiya make some thin glue, I don't know whats the big difference. I'm not a big fan of they're big brushes, they should make one with springe system.
Anyway I would like to know which glue are using?
vonHengest
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Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
AeroScale: 372 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 05:25 AM UTC
Not sure I fully understand your question. Are you asking us what glue(s) we use? Or are you asking which of the glues you mentioned are better? Or something else entirely?
redrsxs
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: December 18, 2009
KitMaker: 13 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 05:32 AM UTC
sorry for my english. I was asking wich one are you using?
russamotto
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Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,325 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 05:57 AM UTC
Tamiya extra thin. It has a very nice, pointy brush, but it can be easily replaced with the brush of your choice.
vonHengest
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Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 06:09 AM UTC
I like the Tamiya glue, especially for smaller parts because it doesn't leave any excess when you attach the little pieces. I use Testors when I want to really fuse the plastic together, and I use Loctite CA Control Gel or Gator Glue for everything else. I usually apply the glue with toothpicks.
Spiderfrommars
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Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 06:15 AM UTC
Tamiya thin green cap, absolutely! I can't live without

It's the only glue which allow you to match the parts and apply the glue AFTER.
It dryes very fast and it it's incredible thin. It doesn't leave ANY sign...

You can use as a putty thinner and i've noticed that a light coat of thin glue can remove little seads.

When you sand plastic parts and you need to clean the rough surfaces, you can aplly a thin coat of Tamiya glue and that works wonderfully...

Cheers



Headhunter506
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New York, United States
Joined: December 01, 2007
KitMaker: 1,528 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 07:08 AM UTC
I only use di and trichloromethane solvents. Better bonding than regular plastic cements. Very little post work required to clean up seams. I've been using them for over 35 years and would never consider going back to regular cements. Unlike regular cements, trichlo allows you to bond acrylic, ABS and butrate to styrene. This makes a big difference when you're scratchbuilding parts from dissimilar materials.

Zap-A-Gap thick CA with a shot of accelerator is fantastic for filling annoying gaps. Unlike the dissolved sprue in liquid cement method, the CA won't damage the surrounding plastic.

I've tried Gator Glue; but, it's no better than white glue, in my opinion. No tensile strength; not the greatest stuff for attaching PE because of this. If it's PE to PE, I'll solder them.
junglejim
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: February 18, 2003
KitMaker: 1,709 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 07:42 AM UTC
Plain old Testors liquid cement 75% of the time, Tamiya Extra Thin (green cap) for the rest.

Jim
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 07:46 AM UTC
I use Hobby Time in the purple bottle. The tip allows for precision glue application and it will bond almost anything.
Violetrock
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European Union
Joined: March 09, 2003
KitMaker: 815 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 08:02 AM UTC
I use MEK known as Butanone and butyl acetate

I use MEK when an extremely fast bonding is needed, butyl acetate when a slower bonding is neeeded or I need to melt the plastic for weld seams, cast structure, etc.
TonyDz
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United States
Joined: December 13, 2009
KitMaker: 420 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 01:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Plain old Testors liquid cement 75% of the time, Tamiya Extra Thin (green cap) for the rest.

Jim



Ditto. I find the Testors gives a stronger join than the Tamiya.


Quoted Text

I'm not a big fan of they're big brushes, they should make one with springe system.



As said else where, you can always use a finer brush.


Quoted Text

It's the only glue which allow you to match the parts and apply the glue AFTER.



You can do the same with Testors.


Spiderfrommars
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Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
AeroScale: 25 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 06:19 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I only use di and trichloromethane solvents. Better bonding than regular plastic cements. Very little post work required to clean up seams. I've been using them for over 35 years and would never consider going back to regular cements. Unlike regular cements, trichlo allows you to bond acrylic, ABS and butrate to styrene. This makes a big difference when you're scratchbuilding parts from dissimilar materials.




Quoted Text

I use MEK known as Butanone and butyl acetate

I use MEK when an extremely fast bonding is needed, butyl acetate when a slower bonding is neeeded or I need to melt the plastic for weld seams, cast structure, etc.



Very interesting indeed. Me too I've noticed that common plastic glues give some problems in scratch works, especially when I use plastics different from Polystyrene Where do you buy it?


Anyway, to be more exhaustive for stronger bonding I use or the Tamiya orange (or withe) cap glue or Faller expert glue.
Headhunter506
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New York, United States
Joined: December 01, 2007
KitMaker: 1,528 posts
AeroScale: 44 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 06:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I only use di and trichloromethane solvents. Better bonding than regular plastic cements. Very little post work required to clean up seams. I've been using them for over 35 years and would never consider going back to regular cements. Unlike regular cements, trichlo allows you to bond acrylic, ABS and butrate to styrene. This makes a big difference when you're scratchbuilding parts from dissimilar materials.




Quoted Text

I use MEK known as Butanone and butyl acetate

I use MEK when an extremely fast bonding is needed, butyl acetate when a slower bonding is neeeded or I need to melt the plastic for weld seams, cast structure, etc.



Very interesting indeed. Me too I've noticed that common plastic glues give some problems in scratch works, especially when use plastics different from Polystyrene Where do you buy it?


Anyway, to be more exhaustive for stronger bonding I use or the Tamiya orange (or withe) cap glue or Faller expert glue.



Can't help you on where to buy the solvents in Italy. Living in New York, I can buy the stuff from a really well stocked art supply store, like Pearl Paint, or at numerous places that specialize in sheet and formed plastic, acrylic and vinyl stock. You should be able to locate one place or the other near you. You could also try a chemical supplier.
Spiderfrommars
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Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
AeroScale: 25 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 07:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Can't help you on where to buy the solvents in Italy. Living in New York, I can buy the stuff from a really well stocked art supply store, like Pearl Paint, or at numerous places that specialize in sheet and formed plastic, acrylic and vinyl stock. You should be able to locate one place or the other near you. You could also try a chemical supplier.




Thanks a lot for the advice. I live in a big city so I think I'll be able to find it. Actually I have already in mind a place where I can buy it
I just hope it won't be expensive and sold in large amounts....I wouldn't like to stock in my flat a lot of very flammable stuff

Thanks a million !

cheers
jashby
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: July 01, 2009
KitMaker: 278 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 01:04 AM UTC
I use Plastructs' Weldene (MEK) and Bondene mainly. Have only just gotten hold of the Tamiya Green Cap and it seems alright.

I used to use Revells Contacta Professional cause of its easy to use needle point applicator and I have used Humbrols Liquid Poly in the past with good results.

For CA I prefer Zap but it was hard to get in Oz for a bit so I have used BSI (Bob Smith Industries) which is the same as Zap.

Bugger, just read the labels on the Plastruct and they say that "This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer". Lucky I'm in the State of Queensland so I'm safe. Same reason I only smoke cigarettes with the label "Your smoking can harm your unborn baby", bit hard to harm it when its a medical impossibilty for me to get pregnant. But then Arnie did it and he's the Govenor of California. Coincedence maybe?

Cheers, John
Headhunter506
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New York, United States
Joined: December 01, 2007
KitMaker: 1,528 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 06:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I use Plastructs' Weldene (MEK) and Bondene mainly. Have only just gotten hold of the Tamiya Green Cap and it seems alright.

I used to use Revells Contacta Professional cause of its easy to use needle point applicator and I have used Humbrols Liquid Poly in the past with good results.

For CA I prefer Zap but it was hard to get in Oz for a bit so I have used BSI (Bob Smith Industries) which is the same as Zap.

Bugger, just read the labels on the Plastruct and they say that "This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer". Lucky I'm in the State of Queensland so I'm safe. Same reason I only smoke cigarettes with the label "Your smoking can harm your unborn baby", bit hard to harm it when its a medical impossibilty for me to get pregnant. But then Arnie did it and he's the Govenor of California. Coincedence maybe?

Cheers, John



Ignore the California-related warnings. The entire state is waiting for the mothership to arrive. Plastruct's Plastic Weld is good for bonding dissimilar plastics to each other. If you go to a plastic supply store, you'll get more bang for your (insert your local currency here). For example, Tenax-7R (repackaged bulk DCM) is sold in 1 oz. bottles which sells for almost $5.00 in some places. You can go to the aforementioned plastic supply house, or home improvement center, and get a pint container of IPS Weld-On 4



for about 13 bucks.
russamotto
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Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,325 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 03:32 PM UTC
BSI is great CA glue. It is sold locally either under that name or with a paste on label for the local shops. I use their odorless formula as it is much easier on the eyes.
Spiderfrommars
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Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 05:34 PM UTC
Unfortunately IPS Weld-On 4 is not on sale in Europe

I'll have to find an alternative product
Tankrider
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 1,265 posts
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2011 - 03:05 AM UTC
I used to use Tamiya thin but went to MEK. Quick drying, strong joint and realitivlt cheap at beteen $6.00 -8.00 for a quart can at Home Depot or Lowe's. I did retain the tamiya bottle(s) and brushes for applying the MEK. I also no longer cuss when I leave the top off and lose half a bottle of Tamiya Thin from evaporation.

John