login   |    register

Scale Modeling Sponsors

See Your Ad Here!

World War II: Japan
Aircraft of Japan in WWII.
1/48 Hasegawa Ki 43 Hayabusa build
Bigrip74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Texas, United States
Joined: February 22, 2008
KitMaker: 3,837 posts
AeroScale: 1,740 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 01:26 AM GMT+7
Thanks Richard, I looked up your paint for the truck:

[quote]I first pre shaded with Tamiya XF 1 Flat Black mixed 50/50 with 91% isopropyl alcohol. I mixed Tamiya XF 49 Khaki with XF 64
Red Brown at a 2 to 1 ratio for the IJAAF brown base color. The first highlight was done with the base color mix lightened with Tamiya XF 60 Dark Yellow sprayed in halo pattern.[quote]

this will help in the future.

Bob
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 11:04 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Richard,
Nice job on all the work posted! Congrats on the wedding too. Can't wait to see the Oscar dio finished. Are you planning on starting the K143II also? I have the Hasegawa 1/32 kit, with Eduard PE and decals-- but just haven't got up the energy to start it yet. Maybe Ill wait and see where yours goes.
VR, Russ



Thanks Russ- I have a number of Hayabusas in the stash - both Hasegawa and FineMolds - the next one I do will be a Ki 43 -II in NMF . Thinking of using a Hasegawa kit and correcting the fuselage/cowl and making resin castings of them. Currently I have two early FineMolds Claudes in primer to finish first. And then there is the WnW D VII tugging at me as well -

Cheers - Richard
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 10:55 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Richard, congrats on the event. Nice looking location.

What color is on the starter truck?

Bob



Thanks Bob- here is link to starter truck build - paint details are in there somewhere .

http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=243710&page=1
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 963 posts
AeroScale: 228 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 01:11 PM GMT+7
Richard,
Nice job on all the work posted! Congrats on the wedding too. Can't wait to see the Oscar dio finished. Are you planning on starting the K143II also? I have the Hasegawa 1/32 kit, with Eduard PE and decals-- but just haven't got up the energy to start it yet. Maybe Ill wait and see where yours goes.
VR, Russ
Bigrip74
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Texas, United States
Joined: February 22, 2008
KitMaker: 3,837 posts
AeroScale: 1,740 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 12:42 PM GMT+7
Richard, congrats on the event. Nice looking location.

What color is on the starter truck?

Bob
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 12:05 PM GMT+7
Hi to all-
My apologies for the lack of updates to those who may be following and wondering - still alive here but I've been busy with a 1/1 scale diorama including a figure my wife and I put together 30 years ago - our first daughter !



Ha - thanks for allowing the detour !

Here is as far as I have gotten with the figures - should have more time at the bench now .





Thanks for looking ! Richard
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 06, 2017 - 03:42 AM GMT+7
A little more progress on the figures-









Working on scene composition-





Thanks for looking ! - Richard
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 29, 2017 - 11:37 AM GMT+7
Mike and Chris -

Thanks gents for looking in and the compliments - figures can make or break a scene and I hope these don't break it - we'll see I suppose !

Richard
c4willy
#305
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
AeroScale: 1,113 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 29, 2017 - 10:11 AM GMT+7
Great work with the figures Richard they are not my forte and I highly respect those that work with them. The project as a whole seems to be coming together nicely looking forward to seeing it progress.
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 29, 2017 - 09:24 AM GMT+7
Working on posing two ground crew figures for the diorama - both from the FineMolds Ki 10 kit. The hand/forearm for the Hucks truck driver is from Eduard's IJAAF figure set. I hope to portray the driver hanging on to the steering wheel while leaning out of the truck and signaling to the pilot and ground crewman who will be resting his hand on the wing while holding the lanyard for a wheel chock in the other.
The driver needed cutting at the hip and knee to position the left leg. The fore arm and torso were bored with a .020" bit to accept a piece of .020" brass rod as an armature. Boring all the way through the torso will allow me to place the hand on the wheel and the driver in position and then fix the rod at the torso with C/A. The upper arm can then be built up and sculpted with milliput.
The groung crewman needed his right arm severed at the shoulder and elbow to pose on the wing. All joints will be tuned up with Milliput.













Thanks for looking in - Richard
mrockhill
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 17, 2009
KitMaker: 510 posts
AeroScale: 455 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 27, 2017 - 03:46 PM GMT+7
Drats!!!... Now mine needs a cockpit air vent tube too

Your Hyabusa is looking awesome Richard. The pilot figure is definitely the cherry on top imho. Much more realistic than your average pilot figure. I can almost see him wiggling his fingers or drumming his hands on the fuselage anxiously waiting for the ground crew to hook up the starter truck

thegirl
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,365 posts
AeroScale: 5,780 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 27, 2017 - 11:09 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Coming along really well Richard and that scheme really stands out . Nice job on painting the facial features . Far better than what I come up with . Are you using acrylics for this ?


Terri



Hi Terri - nice to hear from my neighbor to the north - WAY north !
I underpaint with acrylics and overpaint with tube oils - final flat coat is AK ultra matte varnish - same as on aircraft.
If you are interested the best guide still - IMHO - is the late , GREAT Shep Paine's
" How to Build Dioramas " by Kalmbach Books. Wonderful tutorial on face and figure painting included amongst all the other great stuff.
I am very tempted to try some acrylics though- the drying time for some oil colors stretches to eternity.
Thanks for looking in - Richard



I used to have that book , but I passed it on to a nephew who was getting into scale modeling . That was 17 years ago . It was my bible at the time for scratch building and weathering which help my skills in WW 1 modeling when I started building them .

Never tired oils as an over lay . Never have luck with oils but I have been messing with Vallejo brush paints . But my results are still no better . I should be practicing this more . Until next time my friend from the deep South


Terri
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 963 posts
AeroScale: 228 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 12:18 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text





I am very tempted to try some acrylics though- the drying time for some oil colors stretches to eternity.
Thanks for looking in - Richard



Richard-- Not sure how I missed your excellent build of the Oscar's-- one of my favorite Japanese aircraft--just super work! It could be the "1/48" in the title, as I mostly build in 1/32 though-- I guess that was it. Here's a trick I use to speed up drying time for oil paint-- I thin it in one of those nylon artist pallets with the small dish shapes, with mineral spirits with a drop or two of lacquer thinner added-- it will bring the drying time down to the level of an enamel paint--the more lacquer thinner, the faster the drying time. You just have to be careful working it into the base coat, because the lacquer thinner may tend to eat into the base coat if you rub to hard with the brush. The way I get around this is to ensure the base coat has at least 48 hours to dry. I use this method both for wood grain effects (aka the WnW tutorial for wood grain) and faces.
VR, Russ
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 11:58 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Coming along really well Richard and that scheme really stands out . Nice job on painting the facial features . Far better than what I come up with . Are you using acrylics for this ?


Terri



Hi Terri - nice to hear from my neighbor to the north - WAY north !
I underpaint with acrylics and overpaint with tube oils - final flat coat is AK ultra matte varnish - same as on aircraft.
If you are interested the best guide still - IMHO - is the late , GREAT Shep Paine's
" How to Build Dioramas " by Kalmbach Books. Wonderful tutorial on face and figure painting included amongst all the other great stuff.
I am very tempted to try some acrylics though- the drying time for some oil colors stretches to eternity.
Thanks for looking in - Richard
thegirl
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,365 posts
AeroScale: 5,780 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 11:06 AM GMT+7
Coming along really well Richard and that scheme really stands out . Nice job on painting the facial features . Far better than what I come up with . Are you using acrylics for this ?


Terri
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 23, 2017 - 10:01 AM GMT+7
A little more progress-

Here is a shot for a sense of facial size-



windsreen unmasked, tubular gunsight , prop and head installed-





In this shot we can see the small cabin air intake just inside the cowl opening at the 9-10 o'clock position- this is missing from most kits including this one.



and here is a shot with the one I added -



I'm getting close to wrapping this one up - main gears and doors, canopy , pitot ,aerial mast and aerial to go. This will be part of a diorama with the Hucks starter truck so the mast and aerial, canopy, pitot etc. - all the fragile parts - will be left off until the model is on it's base and near completion.

Thanks for looking in and as always all comments/input welcome-

Cheers -Richard
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Friday, April 21, 2017 - 11:52 AM GMT+7
May I introduce our pilot - or at least another part of him -
Maj. Kinshiro Takeda , Commander 1st Sentai , Hanoi AB
/Indochina Oct 1942



More to follow - Richard
MS406C
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Landes, France
Joined: May 22, 2008
KitMaker: 93 posts
AeroScale: 81 posts
Posted: Monday, April 17, 2017 - 04:32 AM GMT+7
Hello again Richard. Now you know! One have to take care that each spray of varnish will slowly but surely kill the effects of faded paint if those are not contrasted enough. For this I use a trick: instead of lightning the base color I use another shade from a different shade (green, brown, Olive drab, whatever), and it works just fine when I spray the varnishes. If it is to light, then I use pure oil paint that I strech with a flat brush to blend the differences.Hope I've helped, best regards, Jean.
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 16, 2017 - 08:42 AM GMT+7
More progress to report-

With the paint issues hopefully behind me now I've moved forward a bit -

Decaling done - Gunze clear gloss overcoat followed by two coats AK Utra Matte Varnish. All was dusted over lightly with a highly thinned mix of Tamiya Dessert Yellow with additional concentration on the white areas to tone down the brightness a bit. I modulated the Green colors but I may not have been bold enough with it - it looked just right before the first clear gloss coat but it gradually disappeared after each gloss coat.
Thankfully it came back a bit after the flat coat but not as much as I had hoped. I also dusted over the firewall and wheel wells with a bluer
blue/green mix to tone down the emerald color of the Vallejo IJAAF Aotake.





Here is one of the exhaust manifolds - Tamiya Linoleum Deck Brown followed by thin blue-black mist-



Began painting of pilot's arm and installed exhausts and power plant -



And a couple of shots with the cowl temporarily in place-





I've also begun hand painting some minor chipping.

Still to be made before the cowling can be attached is the small cabin air intake visible just inside the cowl opening at the 10 o'clock position.

Thanks for looking and Happy Easter to all - Richard
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 08:51 AM GMT+7
Allo Jean mon ami !

Thanks for your interest and the kind words . Your Hayabusa looks tres bon. I have yet to try the hairspray technique but I think I should . I am also learning paint modulation and I'm afraid I may have been too timid on this build. What looked just right before gloss coating is now disappearing . I'm hoping some will come back with the flat coat. I am also leary of the Aotake shade - too emerald - and I plan to dust over it to make it more blue.

Merci & Au revoir - Richard
MS406C
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Landes, France
Joined: May 22, 2008
KitMaker: 93 posts
AeroScale: 81 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 06:44 AM GMT+7
Hello Richard! Thumbs up for your work on the early Ki-43,but, I wander why you did not use the hairspray technic for your chipping as it is fairly easy to do and gives a much realistic result. I join a pic of my latest Ki-43 build to show you what I mean. I also have trouble with your Aotake shade, even if I am aware of such a color used on the restored Ki-43 in New Zealand! Anyway keep it up, cheers, jean

thegirl
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,365 posts
AeroScale: 5,780 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 01:13 PM GMT+7
Well , you know you can never have enough stripes Richard . She is definitely starting to look very colourful and will stand out in your collection . Thanks for sharing the pic of your Pete . Beautiful job done on the weathering . Will using pepper instead , nice tip



Terri
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 10:50 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Richard,
Great looking stuff!

As I am fairly new to advanced modeling skills (most of my youth was spent making glue bombs), I have not used any metallizers even though I have bought Testors a number of times.

Do the metallizers play well with Tamiya Acrylics? Which ones work best with acrylics, which all I used as they are water based and much easier to clean up from the airbrush. Also, what is the base for metallizers? What solvent do you use for thinning and then cleaning?

I have done a little of the salt method but would like to do more. Interesting about the use of pepper from the mill!

Thanks in advance for the info and it looks great!



Patrick - My only experience with metal finishes is the Vallejo MetalColor
line. I use their Gloss Black Surface Primer 77.660 as a base.
I use 4 shades of aluminum :
77.701 Aluminum
77.702 Duraluminum
77.703 Dark Aluminum
77.706 White Aluminum
I also have their clear gloss over coat which they call MetalVarnish 77.657 but I have yet to try it.
These are all acrylic and very easy to use and seem to be compatable with Tamiya.

Here is a link to my Ka 14 build that offers some insight .

http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=250563&page=1
Read through - there is a post or two regarding Vallejo MetalColor.

Hope this helps - Richard
pnance26
_VISITCOMMUNITY
United States
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 569 posts
AeroScale: 77 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 05:06 AM GMT+7
Richard,
Great looking stuff!

As I am fairly new to advanced modeling skills (most of my youth was spent making glue bombs), I have not used any metallizers even though I have bought Testors a number of times.

Do the metallizers play well with Tamiya Acrylics? Which ones work best with acrylics, which all I used as they are water based and much easier to clean up from the airbrush. Also, what is the base for metallizers? What solvent do you use for thinning and then cleaning?

I have done a little of the salt method but would like to do more. Interesting about the use of pepper from the mill!

Thanks in advance for the info and it looks great!
rdt1953
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 10:32 AM GMT+7
Quickie here-

Decaling progress-



I think it needs a few more white stripes !

more to follow -

Richard