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World War II: Japan
Aircraft of Japan in WWII.
1/48 Hasegawa Ki 43 Hayabusa build
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 470 posts
AeroScale: 422 posts
Posted: Friday, March 24, 2017 - 11:24 AM UTC
Two steps forward - one step back -

The paint woes continue -

The paint work was done to the point of being ready for the pre - decaling gloss coat as I wrestled with my dissatisfaction with the chipping effect.

I just was not happy with it as it looked too forced and unnatural to me.
Also, the liquid mask method was too inconsistent - some peeled away beautifully looking very good and others took the underlying silver paint away with the mask and others left raised green paint at the edges where the mask material was removed so after a bit of soul searching I have elected to try to strip the dark green on the upper surfaces and try to keep the undersurfaces which I am pleased with.





I am going to try to re-do the green without the the primer/ silver bit and and do minimal chipping with brush painting and/or color pencil -

Stay tuned for more drama - hobbies are fun, right ?

Richard
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, March 19, 2017 - 10:39 PM UTC
Hubert -
Thanks for the kind words. I love the Gunze acrylic paints and would still be using them today but they are basically unavailable in the USA . I have a few colors stashed away for future projects but no IJAAF colors unfortunately.
Nice to see your Hayabusa project moving forward .

Cheers ! Richard
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, March 19, 2017 - 10:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Really nice detail work here Richard. However I need some education from you and others about the rationale behind spraying a kit with a metal eyes are like this and then covering it with black, when the final product will be a camouflage scheme. I'm a lot more primitive in my approach to exterior painting, since I haven't yet attempted appreciating, and shy away from natural metal finishes.

So, your comments will be most welcome. The build is coming along very well.



Brian -
Thanks for looking in - I sprayed the airframe in aluminum first because the bottom finish is natural metal and the top surfaces will be chipped - hence the liquid mask.I originally thought I might do very heavy weathering with large amounts of the color flaked away so the entire upper surface was done in aluminum first. Ultimately I chose minimal chipping for a couple of reasons - the marking scheme I chose by Lifelike didn't evidence heavy deterioration of the finish and the Vallejo paint wasn't cooperating with the mask medium in the way I expected even though I made up a test sample on sheet styrene first .
The photos are a little misleading - what you are looking at is not the black preshading but the IJAAF Dark Green itself. I preshaded only the panel lines in black . I meant to take a picture of the preshading itself but got so involved in painting that I neglected to do so. I don't like strong panel lines showing through in a "checkerboard " fashion so I laid On enough green so only a hint of the preshading is there. It doesn't show well in the photos but in strong natural light it looks just right . I now need to start modulating the dark green with lighter shades here and there . Hope this answers your questions - Richard
Kendzior
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Krakow, Poland
Joined: January 29, 2016
KitMaker: 64 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 19, 2017 - 08:55 PM UTC
Hi, Richard

The prop looks very good indeed.

Vallejo MetalColor White Aluminum (and other paints of this range) is one of my favorite metalizers now. The good thing is that the finish is very smooth, almost like after a cote of surfacer. Therefore, another paint applied to this silver base (Gunze's H IJA Green for example) is not adhering very strongly, which is a disadvantage - when it comes to masking, for example when one is painting the markings using masks - but also an advantage, because one can recreate chipping the paint with pieces of adhesive tape (by sticking and peeling it off in a desired place), which gives a very nice effect of randomness.

Keep it up, best regards
Hubert
Redhand
#0
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: January 20, 2013
KitMaker: 1,098 posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 19, 2017 - 03:00 PM UTC
Really nice detail work here Richard. However I need some education from you and others about the rationale behind spraying a kit with a metal eyes are like this and then covering it with black, when the final product will be a camouflage scheme. I'm a lot more primitive in my approach to exterior painting, since I haven't yet attempted appreciating, and shy away from natural metal finishes.

So, your comments will be most welcome. The build is coming along very well.
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 470 posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 19, 2017 - 11:54 AM UTC
Progress in the paint dept. -

Random panels and strapping at spars on underside of wing shot in various tones and wheel wells and firewall shot in Aotake -



Bottom masked for IJAAF Dark Green that wraps around underside -



Cowl and upper surfaces given a case of measles with liquid mask for minor chipping-





Upper surfaces preshaded in black and the shot in base IJAAF Dark Green-







Main gear done and awaiting weathering and gear doors -





Tailwheel done -



and prop/ spinner done-





Next up will be fading upper surfaces -

Thanks for looking and as always all input/comments welcome -

Cheers ! Richard
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
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Posted: Saturday, March 11, 2017 - 04:36 AM UTC
Moving along very nicely Richard , metal coat turned out super and will pop once the variations are added . Looking forward on the next up-date



Terri
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 470 posts
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Posted: Friday, March 10, 2017 - 09:34 AM UTC
Progress update-

I've built up the photo etch gear doors from Eduard - after several failed attempts with both thin and medium C/A I cleaned all off and used 5 minute epoxy for the 3 brackets on each door.



shot the yellow on the rudder/elevators with Tamiya flat yellow cut with a little Tamiya flat white then dusted over with a highly thinned mix of Vallejo ModelAir Insignia White to tone the yellow down a bit.



After masking out the control surfaces the fuselage was shot with Vallejo MetalColor White Aluminum.





here is tail wheel in white aluminum-



and prop/spinner in primer-



I hope to shoot a few panels here and there on the underside in a few aluminum shades to break it up a bit and paint chipped areas on the upper surface with liquid mask before proceeding with the IJAAF Dark Green. I don't have much luck with acrylics and the salt method as the salt leaches into the paint and leaves white marks- I've actually had more success using ground pepper from a pepper mill although it does not adhere as well.

Thanks for looking in - Richard
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 470 posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 07:00 AM UTC
Mike - Thanks for the compliments! As I have stated before I really enjoy all the interchange between like minded folks . Regarding the oil cooler I sent you a PM

Cheers - Richard
mrockhill
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 17, 2009
KitMaker: 481 posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 06:28 AM UTC
Richard your work on this hayabusa has been an absolute pleasure to follow. Especially your tackling of the radiator. Im going to resort to some paint or color pencil trickery to detail the sides of my Hayabusa's plastic part. Just so its not so plain

I wanted to attempt something similar though a bit cruder but couldnt devise something I felt confident would work and be presentable. Your use of mandrels was a far better solution. So im looking to try that when I build my nichimo kit somewhere down the road. I need to reaquaint myself with soldering too, seems a handy thing for modeling

I have to admit its been tough to try and keep my build simple and progressing smoothly while peeking in on this awesomness. I truly almost waffled when you showed the different canopies. I had no idea the rob taurus canopy was that much nicer! Im still resisting but its been tough

Keep up the beautiful work!
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 470 posts
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Posted: Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 12:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice scheme choice Richard , very colourful . Tail wheel turned out not bad ether .

That is one thing I will have to get is colours for Japanese aircraft , don't have any . What is your opinion on the Vallejo Air shades ?



Terri



Terri - I've only just begun with the Vallejo colors so it is a little early to tell. They certainly lay on beautifully - just a drop or two of their thinner in the air brush cup each time . I bought both the IJN and IJAAF sets. There is no interior color included in either set other than Aotake. As I have stated before I like the hue of their Aotake but the high clear content used for a transparent effect limits its use for smaller scales.
I plan on shooting the entire airframe ( other than the fabric covered portions of the control surfaces) in MetalColor white aluminum then painting chipped areas with liquid mask to be followed with various tones of IJAAF Dark Green -
Fingers crossed- Richard
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,328 posts
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Posted: Friday, March 03, 2017 - 01:15 PM UTC
Nice scheme choice Richard , very colourful . Tail wheel turned out not bad ether .

That is one thing I will have to get is colours for Japanese aircraft , don't have any . What is your opinion on the Vallejo Air shades ?



Terri
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 470 posts
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Posted: Friday, March 03, 2017 - 11:56 AM UTC
I've spent a few minutes improving the tailwheel by carving the top of the yoke away from the tire and ading the three lightening holes in the side of the yoke - don't know how much will be seen with the wheel in the grass .

here is the tailwheel as it comes from Hasegawa -





and after tweaking -





I've decided on this scheme - A/C # 1 on Lifelike's sheet 48-041-
Flown by Major Kinshiro Takeda , Commander of 1st Sentai operating out of Hanoi AB/Indochina 1942. I like the overall IJAAF dark green wrapping around the leading edges /wingtips and on to the lower wing surfaces and the lack of the anti- glare panels on the fuse deck and no yellow ID panels on the leading edges. This speaks to me of early Hayabusa.



I've sprayed the control surfaces at the tail in white as a base for the yellow -



and the underside of the ailerons in IJAAF light grey green -



All colors so far Vallejo Model Air.

Thanks for looking in - Richard
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 - 01:55 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard,

I just have seen the engine with the annular oil cooler and all I can say is: wow, amazing!

Oliver



Oliver - Thanks for kind words !

Richard
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 - 01:54 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard,
Agreed that the almighty dollar played a big part in the decision to do the gear the way that they did, as the geometry does lend itself to it. The result can't be the strongest strut.

With you machining skills why not drill a hole from top to bottom after the glue joint is dry for a steel rod. That would make the strut 100% stronger.

Joel



Joel -
Reinforcing the joint with metal would definitely be stronger but drilling all the way through the oleo from the top to the bottom would be very difficult to do without the bit wandering off and coming out the side , and the wheel spindle prevents drilling from the bottom . In hind site the thing to do would have been drilling down through the yoke and up into the oleo before they were joined - but alas I didn't.
I let the joints cure a long time before proceeding so I hope they won't be problematic.
Richard
Antilles
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
Joined: March 22, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 - 10:51 AM UTC
Richard,

I just have seen the engine with the annular oil cooler and all I can say is: wow, amazing!

Oliver
Joel_W
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 05:32 AM UTC
Richard,
Agreed that the almighty dollar played a big part in the decision to do the gear the way that they did, as the geometry does lend itself to it. The result can't be the strongest strut.

With you machining skills why not drill a hole from top to bottom after the glue joint is dry for a steel rod. That would make the strut 100% stronger.

Joel
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 05:11 AM UTC
I have started on the main gear - Hasegawa molded these in a clever but structurally weak way so that both the left and right gear can be made from the same molding - duplicate sprues. The yokes are joined to the bottom of the oleos below the torque links with a cruciform interlocking butt joint that allows the yoke to be rotated 180 degrees. This allows the spindles to face outward on either side with the torque links trailing aft . I suppose this saved Hasegawa a few bucks in tooling but I wish they hadn't done it this way as it is not only weak at a critical area but it also makes axial alignment between the oleo and the yoke difficult as the keys in the butt joint have considerable play in their fit.

here are the components -





Here is one main gear leg with Eduard's photo etch torque link scissors and brake line added-





I have also added more photo etch to the fuselage - rivet detail wrap and gusset plate to the headrest area and actuator horns for the flaps.



As it is nearly time for paint I am going to have to choose which unit/markings. I have it narrowed down to three from two different Lifelike sheets.

Thanks for looking in ! Richard
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 12:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard,
Nice try, but I have you beat by a mile and then some in the infamous & Famous "Whose the Jackass". Almost everything I've learned in modeling came from trial and error, and most of that was from the error part of the equation. It's the final results that count, and from what I can see, the primer coat looks real good. You know my preference is Mig Ammo's Acrylic primers followed by Tamiya Lacquer Gray primer. To each his own.

Your engine detailing just blew me away. The ignition wires look near on perfect, and the installed oil cooler rings turned out dead on perfect.

Looking forward to your next update.

Joel



Joel -
Thanks again for your tip and also for your continuing interest - I'm learning about the Vallejo primer and disliking it less but I don't know if I'll use it again . The fact that you really can't sand it limits it's use for disclosing where corrections are needed. This time of year I spray in the kitchen because of unheated space in the shop so that means acrylics only but by next fall that will change.
I guess we never stop learning - Richard
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 470 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 12:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Rant away Richard . I have mixed feelings on some of the Vallejo Air as well . I had nothing but issues with the black basing for the Metalcoat . No matter what I did it wouldn't spray right . So I don't use it anymore and just spray the Metalcoat with out it . Some of their colours you do have to thin in order for them to spray nice . It took me a bit on the learning curve side of things on working with their Air paints .




Terri



Terri - thanks for the support - oddly I had great results with the Metalcolor system from Vallejo which led to my foolish overconfidence trying their grey primer.

A lesson learned a long time ago but apparently the modeling gods felt I needed to learn it again- Richard
Joel_W
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 04:11 AM UTC
Richard,
Nice try, but I have you beat by a mile and then some in the infamous & Famous "Whose the Jackass". Almost everything I've learned in modeling came from trial and error, and most of that was from the error part of the equation. It's the final results that count, and from what I can see, the primer coat looks real good. You know my preference is Mig Ammo's Acrylic primers followed by Tamiya Lacquer Gray primer. To each his own.

Your engine detailing just blew me away. The ignition wires look near on perfect, and the installed oil cooler rings turned out dead on perfect.

Looking forward to your next update.

Joel
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,328 posts
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 01:39 AM UTC
Rant away Richard . I have mixed feelings on some of the Vallejo Air as well . I had nothing but issues with the black basing for the Metalcoat . No matter what I did it wouldn't spray right . So I don't use it anymore and just spray the Metalcoat with out it . Some of their colours you do have to thin in order for them to spray nice . It took me a bit on the learning curve side of things on working with their Air paints .




Terri
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 470 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 03:12 PM UTC
Brief update -

I have begun paintwork on the cowl/fuselage by priming with Vallejo light grey primer- I have only recently started using their products and my first experience was my last build using their Metalcolor gloss black primer and aluminum shades. Old ideas die hard for this Luddite and I distrusted their instructions that no thinning was needed so I tried both ways- thinned to different ratios and straight from the bottle. To my amazement it worked best nearly straight from the bottle- just a drop or so of Vallejo airbrush thinner in the airbrush cup.
Fast forward to this build and the consequences of not doing a test with an untried product. Primer in the cup - a drop or two of thinner - stir - spray . worked well for a moment then the spitting began. No worries - I'll thin it a little further and keep going . I'll let it cure for a few days then sand out the spit drops right ? WRONG ! This product does not like sanding in nearly any form. Wet sand it , and keep your abrasives from clogging so they stay sharp and cut well ,right ? WRONG ! This just makes a slurry that softens every thing and all comes off in skins. No adhesion to the bare plastic whatsoever . Before priming the model was washed with water and a drop of detergent as I have always done,rinsed and dried thoroughly , wiped with a lint free cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol - just as I have been doing for years. NO ADHESION ! The instructions on the bottle warn not to do any masking for 24 hours so I waited 48 hrs . NO ADHESION ! Ultimately I was able to achieve some success by cutting up an entire sheet of 1500 wet/dry silicone carbide into 1 inch squares and dry sanding very lightly and constantly changing to fresh squares to knock down the spit drops and pebbly texture. If I broke through to plastic the primer just rolled away and tore off leaving hard edges that defied feathering with abrasive. Try feathering one edge of a rubber band with sand paper and you'll have a good idea of what working with this stuff is like.
In a very discouraged state I mention my problem to Joel W and at his suggestion I tried denatured alcohol. With a q-tip moistened with alcohol I was able to wipe away all affected areas and even used it to feather the various hard edges so my hat's off to you buddy Joel -you may very well have saved all my effort.
I returned to the primer this evening and experimented with different ratios and the answer seems to be a very standard 1 part thinner /2 parts primer which is what I should have done in the first place. Feel free to vote for me in the next " Who's the Jackass " poll.
I think I may have dodged a pretty high caliber bullet so here it is all redone - I hope !







Thanks for looking and putting up with my rant ! Richard
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
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Posted: Friday, February 17, 2017 - 11:24 AM UTC
Here is the engine with all 28 ignition leads while they can be seen -





And here it is with the annular oil cooler installed . The mounting clamps/struts were made by flattening one end of a piece of brass wire and bending the flat part around the radiator coils and inserting the round part into predrilled holes in the propeller boss. All was fastened with medium CA.





I still need to add the oil feed and return lines to the cooler.

I think I will build up the main landing gear next then it will be time for some paint.

More to follow and thanks for looking in ! Richard
Joel_W
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New York, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 09:43 AM UTC
Richard,
Nice find and solution to the cylinder sleeves. Looking forward to finally seeing it wired up.

Joel