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World War II: Japan
Aircraft of Japan in WWII.
Hasegawa 1/32 old mould A6M5c Zero
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
AeroScale: 1,113 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 16, 2017 - 12:54 AM GMT+7
Thanks Richard! It's a harsh environment and some airframes fared worse than others. It's fine line between just enough and too much.

As to what's next well I'm in 11 campaigns (yes 11 what can I say) currently and I have completed 3 of them. I've got my Pacific Coast Models 1/32 scale Hurricane to finish for the "Other guys campaign" and I have two other kits underway for the ETO campaign and the Soviet Phoenix campaign. They are a 1/72nd scale Mk-IV Blenheim night fighter and the ICM 1/48 scale Polikarpov I-153.

I'm also deciding what to build for the flying boats campaign and I've got to get the 1/48 scale Airfix Supermarine Walrus for the "I really wanna build this" campaign. Assuming it'll be available for the campaign if not my second choice is the Airfix 1/48 Bolton Paul Defiant. I'll be blogging about the builds for both campaigns.

I've got another campaign that I'll be running in August the ANZAC brothers in arms for which I've settled on a Staghound Armoured car of the New Zealand 19th Armoured Division in Italy.

There's probably a few other campaigns and models I've forgotten about but that's the current stuff. Too much information?
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 523 posts
AeroScale: 472 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 15, 2017 - 11:44 PM GMT+7
Nice job Chris ! Looks like the Pacific environment and losing the war has taken it's toll. What's next ? Richard
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
AeroScale: 1,113 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 15, 2017 - 08:49 PM GMT+7
Cheers Gaz! It's been a bit of a learning curve but I've got a technique sorted out that I think will render a very life like effect for chipping. And the weathering while a little heavy in places was pretty much what I was looking for.
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 2,887 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 15, 2017 - 07:54 PM GMT+7
Chris,
Nice job! I really like the way you've weathered this Zero.

Gaz
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
AeroScale: 1,113 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 15, 2017 - 04:13 PM GMT+7
Okay so I've finally got her finished! I've painted the pitot tube and the navigation lights. Weathered the landing gear and the flaps. Unmasked the canopy and cleaned up. All in all I'm pretty satisfied with the results. The seat makes an enormous difference to the cockpit as does the photo-etch. Replacing the kit barrels with metal ones was also a vast improvement. This kit represents the physical appearance of the Zero very well with raised rivets and recessed panel lines where appropriate. But is let down by the actual age of the kit with it's poor mouldings of the cockpit and barrels. It's simply an age thing as the moulds themselves still seem to produce reasonable sprues with little flash.

Anyway here are some pics of the finished article.




















c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
AeroScale: 1,113 posts
Posted: Friday, March 24, 2017 - 12:30 PM GMT+7
Hi Patrick thanks for the compliment! I've figured out the way to chip the paint that looks best to me. I use a metaliser by Gunze that looks just like aluminium when sprayed on and if over coated with another colour will literally peel off if you apply masking tape to it. But I trialed it on the bottom only as I wasn't sure how the two paint types would mix. Seems to be fine so when I build my next subject and I want to chip the paint I'll use this technique.
pnance26
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United States
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 569 posts
AeroScale: 77 posts
Posted: Friday, March 24, 2017 - 10:57 AM GMT+7
Great looking Zero, Chris! Quite the staining and weathering job! You guys should all have tutorials about getting it done so newbies like me can get a leg up!

Great stuff!
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
AeroScale: 1,113 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 01:47 PM GMT+7
Hi Bernd thanks for the encouragement. I've been tinkering with the weathering and paint chipping. Some of the chipping looks simply wrong so I'm going to revisit that. And I'm working on getting the landing gear in and weathered. But all in all not far now till I'm done, pics to follow once I've got her standing on her feet so to speak.
berndm
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Niedersachsen, Germany
Joined: March 26, 2014
KitMaker: 835 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 - 07:23 PM GMT+7
Thats a good bunch of Progress, Chris.
Nearly there, good work !
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
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Posted: Monday, February 27, 2017 - 01:52 PM GMT+7
Hi Joel many thanks for the positive feed back I really appreciate it. As for the decals they were floated on a bed of Klear (Future for you Americans) and then plenty of micro Sol to soften it and let it get pulled down into the panel lines. Giving the result you see.
Joel_W
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Monday, February 27, 2017 - 05:34 AM GMT+7
Chris,
Decaling really looks like it was painted on. Love how they sunk into those panel lines. And the weathering over them really adds a lot to the overall effect.

Joel
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
AeroScale: 1,113 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 09:54 PM GMT+7
Thanks James I appreciate the positive feedback! Well it's definitely looking more like a Zero now. Got a few things to paint and then attach mainly undercarriage components. A little weathering of same and then dull coat to pull it all together.











lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: January 06, 2007
KitMaker: 3,627 posts
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 12:53 AM GMT+7
Really great work Chris. The fading is top notch
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 08:58 PM GMT+7
@Terri:- Thanks Terri your appreciation is greatly valued.

@Gazza:- Awesome I look forward to seeing your take on this Gary with your Saggitario.

@Joel:- Thanks buddy your approval is always greatly appreciated.

So after some intermittent work on the Zero I've got the power egg attached to the airframe. And I've started adding the decals which are always pretty sparse on Japanese airframes. I've also painted the prop and spinner the typical red-brown they used. It's a Gunze colour actually called "propeller colour" believe it or not.









Joel_W
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New York, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 01:40 PM GMT+7
Chris,
the paint fading from wear and tear really looks quite good.

Joel
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 2,887 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 01:37 PM GMT+7
Chris,
I dig the tonal variation on her. Gonna try it with the Saggitario I'm building for the Italian campaign. My version of verde oliva scuro 2 is mighty dark.

Gaz
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,365 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 11:55 AM GMT+7
Nice job on the camo so far Chris




Terri
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
AeroScale: 1,113 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 10:44 PM GMT+7
@Joel:- I will use masks for the canopy Joel if it's complex or the framing is indistinct. I used a set of Montex masks for the 1/48 Bv141 and an Eduard set for the Airfix kit. But the framing on the Zero is well defined and really rather simple and I'd spent most of my budget getting the barrels for the kit. I'm not as wealthy as I'd like for this hobby LOL.

@Bernd:- Thanks my friend I appreciate your continued support. Given the cost of the barrels they really needed to make a major difference and they've certainly done that for me.

Anyway I've been working on the paint scheme which is really very simple IJN green over IJN grey (Both Tamiya colours). I've been modulating the rather dark green camo with a lightened mix of the same colour just cut with a little light green and grey. I've sprayed it over the areas where sun would degrade the applied paint and those areas like the covers for the magazines and the guns where handling would mar the finish over time. I'll chip it where appropriate and the underside will be dirtied up with oil and grime rather than faded as the sun rarely saw it. It's not as harsh a delineation as the flash photography would imply but rather a more subtle tonal variation. I've also applied it more heavily to the control surfaces as the paint on the fabric tended to be lighter than on the aluminium. I'll work on the underside over the weekend and then get the decals on before panting the cowling and attaching it. I've scribed some of the missing panel lines on the cowl but the fasteners have been eluding accurate portrayal. So I'm going to cut some from very thin plasticard and glue them in place not quite as the original but it should work.















Slight over spray in the wheel wells I'll touch those up a little later after weathering the underside.
berndm
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Niedersachsen, Germany
Joined: March 26, 2014
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Posted: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 07:54 PM GMT+7
Chris, your build is starting to look like a Zero, well done so far.
The metal barrels are a real improvement and as you say a must.

Bernd
Joel_W
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New York, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 06:28 AM GMT+7
Chris,
I too really like how you installed those gun barrels. Will be using your technique in the future for sure.

My only suggestion is to consider Eduard masks on future builds. They will save you time, and they fit for the most part like a glove.

Joel
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
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Posted: Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 01:12 AM GMT+7
Hey Chris , she is starting to look like a airplane now . Making nice progress and I like how the pit turned out and I also like your trick for installing the gun barrels . Looking forward on seeing some colour soon .



Terri
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 17, 2017 - 08:21 PM GMT+7
@Bernd:-Thanks my friend for the kind comments! Yes given the large radial and the tail dragger setup you needed height to see anything. Which is why the Wyvern had such a hump in the fuselage to give the pilot a better view. The extra's just make the cockpit pop as the kit provided details were sparse to say the least.

@Joel:- My thanks for the continued encouragement my friend! I agree Joel the metal barrels are a must for this kit as the kit provided parts are just shapeless blobs. The 7.7mm, 20mm barrels and pitot tube are master but the 13mm barrels are Aber. As I couldn't find any Master ones from this particular supplier.


Working on the canopy and fuselage guns. To get the right length of tube I drilled out the gun troughs to accept the size of plastic tube I was using just enough so it was a snug fit. I then marked the plastic tube where I wanted the machined barrels to end and cut it to length. I marked out and removed the length of the MG barrel accordingly. Then drilled out the waste so the end of the barrel would fit snugly.

I painted the tube black as the breech of the Mg was black in an effort to help it fade into the background. I put a drop of superglue on the mating surface of the tube and slid it into place. This didn't really work out to well so using a piece of brass wire I applied a drop of superglue while it was in place, which worked remarkably better.

I now need to mask off the cockpit so I can spray a coat of Mitsubishi interior green on the canopy then start working on the top coat. Here are some pics showing the progress.

















Joel_W
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New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 13, 2017 - 06:00 AM GMT+7
Chris,
You're making excellent progress. the overall cockpit really looks good with just the right amount of weathering for that used but not abused look to it.

Nice job painting those wells, they certainly have that metallic look.

And those Master gun barrels puts any plastic I've ever seen to shame. They're always worth the cost if more then just the tips show.

Joel
berndm
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Niedersachsen, Germany
Joined: March 26, 2014
KitMaker: 835 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2017 - 11:49 PM GMT+7
Nice work, Chris !
The well detailed cockpit with the new seat add a lot of details and will stay visible.
Well done.

The seat mechanism has some importance for the Zero, pilots raised the seat as far as possible during taxiing the aircraft.

Well done so far
Bernd
c4willy
#305
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,260 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2017 - 06:04 PM GMT+7
@Terri:- I'd look forward to seeing you build it Terri and would of course follow any build log. (Me hint? Nooooooooo)


@Gary:- Thanks gaz it was certainly easier than the PE belts on the Hurricane. And the extra realism of the seat really improves the office.

@Joel:- Thanks my friend your appreciation of my work is always gratefully received. The I.P. looks great if a little on the small size for this kit.

Okay so I'm getting things done and it looks a lot more like a Zero now. I've got the detail painting done the fuselage buttoned up and the wings on. I put strips of plasticard to act as shims at the wing root and under the wing fuselage join at the front to ensure the tops of the wings were flush. Just a little clean up with some sand paper and it should look just fine. A few gaps here and there but they'll be easy to remedy.

Also you can see on the top of the fuselage two cracks that appeared while I was pulling the fuselage into line. They appeared after spraying some accelerant on the superglue I used to fill the aerial fuselage gap. I think that in this case the accelerant made the plastic brittle and it fractured. I've had this happen an a couple of Tamiya builds with old kits. This may be something that happens when plastic simply gets old. Anyhow they are stabilized now and ready for filler so it shouldn't take too much work.