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World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
TBD-1 Midway Ens. George Gay
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 963 posts
AeroScale: 228 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 11, 2017 - 03:44 PM GMT+7
Patrick-- looking good! I like Milliput for molding stuff too-- it dries rock hard in a few hours, and works great in simulating cloth and thin materials like towels, canvas, and pockets, just roll it flat on a sheet of kitchen wax paper with a drop or two of water to break the surface tension on the paper-- it's amazing how thin you can get it, and still have it be durable. You can add detailed like pockets on the life raft or clothing articles too. As a side note, I had an elderly neighbor (funny me saying that as some would consider my 64 years as "elderly") with a leak in her kitchen sink drain-- yep it works underwater just like they said it does-- I used half a tube of Milliput and smoothed it right into the joint that was leaking-- fixed it until a plumber could get there 3 days later-- he asked what the heck was holding the sink together! I had to explain Milliput to him-- he'd never heard of anything like it.
VR, Russ
pnance26
_VISITCOMMUNITY
United States
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 569 posts
AeroScale: 77 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2017 - 10:40 AM GMT+7
I need help!

I have discovered that "FUTURE" is no longer manufactured but that Pledge (who bought the brand) makes a similar product.

Will this work for dipping canopies and how about that "Future" finish people like to spray on their finished models?
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 963 posts
AeroScale: 228 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2017 - 03:50 PM GMT+7
Patrick-- See the PM I sent you-- bottom line, Pledge with Future is the same as the old Future. It can be dipped or sprayed, I never thin it, but others do with distilled water-- but I find this unnecessary-- Future is self leveling-- but dries quickly-- you can avoid drips and sags by wicking off the excess with a paper towel. If you screw up, just strip it with household ammonia-- but never spray ammonia through your airbrush as it can damage chrome and corrode brass. I prefer lacquer thinner, but you can use water if you clean right after applying. It can also be stripped with Windex-- it just takes a little longer. Some decal solutions will leave a white residue on Future-- not to fear, just apply a second coat of Future, it will disappear.
VR, Russ
pnance26
_VISITCOMMUNITY
United States
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 569 posts
AeroScale: 77 posts
Posted: Friday, May 19, 2017 - 06:10 AM GMT+7
This Russ Bucy guy is one helluva guy! Always with lots of good advice and tips! I don't think I have ever had anyone in the modeling hobby be so generous with help and I know he will always answer a question.

And on that note, I won't be working for the next three weeks on the project as I have work, then a week with my son in Memphis and Little Rock, come back and go back to work. Next available bench day will be way off in June... maybe the 9th! But I will be cruising the shops of Memphis and LR if anyone has any suggestions!

Cheers! I will be looking in! Good luck with all that you are doing!
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 963 posts
AeroScale: 228 posts
Posted: Friday, May 19, 2017 - 06:59 AM GMT+7
Well, you are generous with your comments, but the truth is I belong to a great group of modelers here in the NW that make it a habit of helping other modelers out all the time. We just make it a habit of paying it forward when we can. There are many others on Kitmaker that do the same- one reason it's my favorite-- and many here have done the same for me here.
VR, Russ