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My P-51B Build.
STLDALE
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Missouri, United States
Joined: January 16, 2011
KitMaker: 91 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 - 09:44 AM GMT+7
Right off the bat let me say that I got a lot of great advise from folks in another thread I started.
I bought Tamiya's kit #61042 and am going to do the kit over the next few weeks.
I will have lots of construction and painting questions along the way.
I'm looking forward to learning and having lots of fun.
Thanks folks.
Merlin
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#017
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United Kingdom
Joined: June 11, 2003
KitMaker: 16,450 posts
AeroScale: 12,254 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 - 10:11 AM GMT+7
Nice one Dale

You've picked a great kit and you'll find plenty of experienced folks here ready to help along the way.

Just remember to post your questions early enough to give people a chance to advise you. It's painful on both sides if a problem happens that could have been avoided for the sake of waiting for an answer.

All the best

Rowan
STLDALE
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Missouri, United States
Joined: January 16, 2011
KitMaker: 91 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 - 10:30 AM GMT+7
Thanks.
I plan on taking it slow and have no doubt that I will get great advise for the folks here.
I'm not so good at posting pics though so my questions might be a little long winded.
TotemWolf
#288
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 286 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 - 01:58 PM GMT+7
Always dry fit and always be thinking of what you will have to do with the piece you are working in the next few steps. That way you will avoid a lot of the 'surprises' that always pop up.
Bigrip74
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Texas, United States
Joined: February 22, 2008
KitMaker: 4,331 posts
AeroScale: 2,188 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 - 02:01 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Always dry fit and always be thinking of what you will have to do with the piece you are working in the next few steps. That way you will avoid a lot of the 'surprises' that always pop up.



GOOD! Advice Robert, Dale don't make it a race use this as a way to relax an shut the world out.
drabslab
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European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 1,514 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 - 04:44 AM GMT+7
And dont forget painting as additional step , often before assembly. Instruction sheets often ignore that details must be painted before gluing
TotemWolf
#288
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 286 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 - 06:21 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

And dont forget painting as additional step , often before assembly. Instruction sheets often ignore that details must be painted before gluing



Exactly! You will never follow the instructions 100% anyway. Slow and steady. Good models take time. Great models take even more.
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 695 posts
AeroScale: 626 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 - 11:20 AM GMT+7
Dale - I'll be watching this with great enthusiasm - always nice to share interests with people who are just discovering. Grow and learn and increase your skills and accuracy but never let any of these get in the way of enjoyment. We are all glad to help as we can along the way .

HAPPY Modeling ! Richard
STLDALE
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Missouri, United States
Joined: January 16, 2011
KitMaker: 91 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 21, 2017 - 09:48 AM GMT+7
Thanks everyone.
Life has gotten in the way again and I wont be able to start my build until Saturday. I hope so anyway.
I want to use the instrument panel decal on this build.
I bought the Micro Sol and Micro Set to do decals with.
Any tips on how to properly use them?
Thanks.
TotemWolf
#288
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 286 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Friday, September 22, 2017 - 01:25 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Thanks everyone.
Life has gotten in the way again and I wont be able to start my build until Saturday. I hope so anyway.
I want to use the instrument panel decal on this build.
I bought the Micro Sol and Micro Set to do decals with.
Any tips on how to properly use them?
Thanks.


Be careful with the Micro Sol. It great stuff and will make your decals look painted on if used right. It also will make them very soft, so don't apply it until the decal is set in place and then go easy at first. You can always come back and add more as need even days later. Too much too quick WILL tear up the decal.

Micro Set goes down first, then the decal, and then as needed a little Micro Sol. Repeat the Micro Sol a bit at a time till you get the look you want.


TotemWolf
#288
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 286 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Friday, September 22, 2017 - 01:27 AM GMT+7
Here's a good tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axgf8NNRh7M
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 695 posts
AeroScale: 626 posts
Posted: Friday, September 22, 2017 - 05:35 AM GMT+7
Dale - I note from your other thread that you may be using Vallejo Model Air. You may be aware of this but in the event that you aren't , the Model Air Line is already thinned for air brushing-some colors and/or techniques may require further thinning . They offer duplicate colors in a heavier viscosity
( Model Color perhaps ?) for brushing. If you are going to prime your models I strongly advise AGAINST Vallejo primers - they have minimal adhesion and are impossible to sand. I recommend Stynylrez by Badger - just as easy to use and clean up after and an infinitely better product. Hope to see some pics as you progress. -Richard
TotemWolf
#288
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 286 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Friday, September 22, 2017 - 06:48 AM GMT+7
Vallejo primer works great as a primer for painting on, but not, as mentioned, a surfacer. Finish the surface before using it. I use their putty and a some sanding sticks and don't ever prime until the plastic is ready for the first coat.
STLDALE
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Missouri, United States
Joined: January 16, 2011
KitMaker: 91 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Friday, September 22, 2017 - 10:05 AM GMT+7
I have a can of Tamiya fine white primer to use
So I should prime,paint,gloss finish.and then decals right?
rdt1953
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 695 posts
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Posted: Friday, September 22, 2017 - 11:06 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

I have a can of Tamiya fine white primer to use
So I should prime,paint,gloss finish.and then decals right?



If you use flat paints then you need clear gloss coat before decals .
STLDALE
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Missouri, United States
Joined: January 16, 2011
KitMaker: 91 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Monday, September 25, 2017 - 11:28 AM GMT+7
Ok folks.
Should I assemble the cockpit and spray the entire assembly in Interior Green and then gloss coat and after that use a wash to bring out the details?
I am also going to use the instrument panel decal.
Thanks.
TotemWolf
#288
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 286 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 02:49 AM GMT+7
Depending on what kind of paint you use and what kind of wash, could skip the gloss coat.
I use acrylics, Vallejo to be precise, and do an oil wash right over it for my cockpits. It leaves everything good and matte.

... but you do have the order right.
STLDALE
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Missouri, United States
Joined: January 16, 2011
KitMaker: 91 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 07:37 AM GMT+7
Yes I will be using Vallejo Model Air.
What is needed for an oil wash?
How do I make one?
Thanks.
drabslab
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European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 1,514 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 08:56 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Yes I will be using Vallejo Model Air.
What is needed for an oil wash?
How do I make one?
Thanks.



Vallejo; I just can't understand why some people like this stuff. I tried it several times and the result was poor each time.

The primer does not even seem to permit to correct some surface errors after priming, it just peels of.

Priming, airbrushing... it is already difficult enough without choosing a primer or paint that punishes every mistake you make.

TotemWolf
#288
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 286 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 09:17 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Yes I will be using Vallejo Model Air.
What is needed for an oil wash?
How do I make one?
Thanks.



Vallejo; I just can't understand why some people like this stuff. I tried it several times and the result was poor each time.

The primer does not even seem to permit to correct some surface errors after priming, it just peels of.

Priming, airbrushing... it is already difficult enough without choosing a primer or paint that punishes every mistake you make.


I've tried lacquers and acrylics of all kinds. I use to swear by Tamiya. Once learned how to use Vallejo and their primer I never went back.
BTW their primer is a primer not a surfacer. You would never use Maskol for a surfacer but it's one heck of masking fluid. So, why would you use a primer as a surfacer and then complain about it?
TotemWolf
#288
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 286 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 09:21 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Yes I will be using Vallejo Model Air.
What is needed for an oil wash?
How do I make one?
Thanks.


You don't need to use an oil wash. It's just that it is not best to use an acrylic wash or panel liner over acrylic paint without sealing it first.
That is why I was wondering what you were planning on doing.
If you are planning to use an acrylic like say Tamiya Panel liner, then yes seal the paint first.

By the way their are many good tutorials on washes of all types on YouTube.
Willard79
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Wellington, New Zealand
Joined: June 01, 2014
KitMaker: 99 posts
AeroScale: 99 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 09:37 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Yes I will be using Vallejo Model Air.
What is needed for an oil wash?
How do I make one?
Thanks.



Vallejo; I just can't understand why some people like this stuff. I tried it several times and the result was poor each time.

The primer does not even seem to permit to correct some surface errors after priming, it just peels of.

Priming, airbrushing... it is already difficult enough without choosing a primer or paint that punishes every mistake you make.




Vallejo is great for both airbrushing and particularly brush painting. The low toxicity of its thinner and cleanup products is a plus.
However the acrylic primers (not just Vallejo) are next to useless if you're iteratively filling/sanding and priming, and I don't think this is the intent for this type of product anyway.
If you're priming for aircraft (or armour?) you need a good lacquer based primer like Mr.Surfacer or Tamiya's surface primer, then you can go with whatever you like for your top and finishing coats.

my 2c.

edit: grammar
STLDALE
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Missouri, United States
Joined: January 16, 2011
KitMaker: 91 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 09:49 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Yes I will be using Vallejo Model Air.
What is needed for an oil wash?
How do I make one?
Thanks.


You don't need to use an oil wash. It's just that it is not best to use an acrylic wash or panel liner over acrylic paint without sealing it first.
That is why I was wondering what you were planning on doing.
If you are planning to use an acrylic like say Tamiya Panel liner, then yes seal the paint first.

By the way their are many good tutorials on washes of all types on YouTube.



Well I dont have any wash right now so I am open to trying any kind.
raypalmer
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 29, 2010
KitMaker: 1,151 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 10:34 AM GMT+7
You can make a wash out of just about any pigment properly thinned. Having said that, the standard approach is oil. So head to somewhere that sells art supplies in some capacity and pick up a tube of raw umber (or black or dark grey but raw umber seems most versatile) oil paint and a bottle of white spirit. It is normal for these 2 items to sum to about 20 or 30 dollars so don't be alarmed.

Oil is especially attractive when using acrylics like Vallejo because, as mentioned earlier, no need to seal before application.
STLDALE
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Missouri, United States
Joined: January 16, 2011
KitMaker: 91 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 10:47 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

You can make a wash out of just about any pigment properly thinned. Having said that, the standard approach is oil. So head to somewhere that sells art supplies in some capacity and pick up a tube of raw umber (or black or dark grey but raw umber seems most versatile) oil paint and a bottle of white spirit. It is normal for these 2 items to sum to about 20 or 30 dollars so don't be alarmed.

Oil is especially attractive when using acrylics like Vallejo because, as mentioned earlier, no need to seal before application.



It sounds great its just that I am scared I will mess it up and ruin my model.