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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Building the Meng Sherman
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 - 08:53 AM UTC
did a little on the back end.

No problem here.
The deflector went together easily.

Here are the Sprockets and Idlers.


With where the seam is in the Sprocket Drum it looks like this could be used for a Easy 8 Drive.
I'll be painting this next, then to add the Bogies and start the Tracks which I know everyone is waiting fore.
Regards.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 07:45 AM UTC
I have the Lower Hull & Bogies Painted.

Adding a little wear to the Wheel edges.

I had the glue areas masked off it saves a lot of paint scraping.

Bogies installed.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 07:51 AM UTC

The Idlers are adjustable so don't glue them until you have the Track installed and adjusted.

Test fitting the Upper Hull.

OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 07:58 AM UTC
I'll be starting the Track next, here is one of the 3 Sprue for the Track. There's 290 Pieces on each Sprue.



OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, October 19, 2019 - 08:05 AM UTC
I have the extra Sprue removed, I'll leave the End Connectors attached for painting.

Started joining the Tops & Bottoms together. I left the Tops on the Sprue and glued the Bottoms to them. It would work the other way too.

OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, October 19, 2019 - 08:11 AM UTC
It's all painted.



Tomorrow I'll remove the parts.
Finished for now.
Donald
ctkwok
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Alabama, United States
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Posted: Saturday, October 19, 2019 - 02:14 PM UTC
Just when you think Meng's Panther tracks were bad they managed to outdo themselves with this insane metal threaded system. I've managed to get it to work at the very end, but oh boy. I'm short of wires at the end, way short. Wondering if you have the same problem?
ericadeane
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Posted: Sunday, October 20, 2019 - 11:48 PM UTC
Donald: Can I make a suggestion? I apply the silver wear to the roadwheel rims too to mimic the real thing. Another area to do are the return rollers and the upper skid. The rollers' face would be bare metal (just like the idler wheels). Their ends would be very worn too -- due to rubbing on the end connectors.

The upper surface of the skid would similarly be like the faces of the return rollers and idler -- worn to bare metal due to the constant contact with the tracks links
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, October 21, 2019 - 08:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Donald: Can I make a suggestion? I apply the silver wear to the roadwheel rims too to mimic the real thing. Another area to do are the return rollers and the upper skid. The rollers' face would be bare metal (just like the idler wheels). Their ends would be very worn too -- due to rubbing on the end connectors.

The upper surface of the skid would similarly be like the faces of the return rollers and idler -- worn to bare metal due to the constant contact with the tracks links



Some good Ideas I just haven't got to that area yet, Distracted with the Tracks coming up next.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, October 21, 2019 - 08:36 AM UTC
Now on to the Track assembly, I Finished 2 sections so far and thought yous would like to see what I came up with.

To start I didn't use the fine wire that they give you in the kit , it just didn't look right. Hey I tried it , it's no good.

careful on removing the End Connectors , they are rather delecate.

Here is what you will need for each full Jig section.
The Wire is Florist wire with a steel finish, It's the same size as a #77 Drill. You can get it at most craft stores.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, October 21, 2019 - 08:46 AM UTC
The Wire Pieces should be at least 12mm long. The Jig makes a handy gage for cutting them.

Here's the start.



OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, October 21, 2019 - 08:53 AM UTC
Install the cover and clamp tightly.

I preset the #77 drill bit to not go all the way through.
You may be able to force the pins without drilling.

I started at one end , drilling and pining as I went along.

Here the Pin is partially inserted, I finished it with a pair of Needle nose pliers.

OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, October 21, 2019 - 09:03 AM UTC
It should look like this on both sides

When all the pins were installed I removed the Track section from the Jig placed it on a straight brass bar to keep it level and applied a small bit of Super Glue to the ends to keep everything straight.

It's very flexable.

OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, October 21, 2019 - 09:09 AM UTC


So now I have shown you how I am doing it, I have to get back to finishing the rest of them.
Finished for a while but hopefully not too long.
Donald
panamadan
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Posted: Monday, October 21, 2019 - 11:59 AM UTC
That is a crazy amount of work.
Dan
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, October 22, 2019 - 01:49 AM UTC
Just a little add on, to make it easier to keep everything in the Jig before clamping try the following.

Use the top of the Jig to hold the parts in and slide it as parts are added.




I know this is a little out of order, I just thought of it.
Regards.
Donald
Fitzgerald
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Tuesday, October 22, 2019 - 10:28 AM UTC
Hey Donald,
thank you for the built log.
I have the kit here as well and I don't trust the tracks at all. I'll follow your lead and get a 0,5mm wire from my nearby florist or hardwarestore as well.


Cheers,
Stephan
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, October 22, 2019 - 08:21 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey Donald,
thank you for the built log.
I have the kit here as well and I don't trust the tracks at all. I'll follow your lead and get a 0,5mm wire from my nearby florist or hardwarestore as well.


Cheers,
Stephan



I'm happy that you are finding this build useful .
The wire that I'm using comes in a straight bundle not on a coil roll .It's about 20 inches long.
Each piece makes about 1 & 1/2 sections of 11 Shoes.
It's a soft steel wire, you don't want brass wire as the color will be off.
Regards.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, October 24, 2019 - 08:16 AM UTC
I finally finished the Track and installed it.
Here is how I did it.
I assembled the Track in 6 sections of 11 and 1 of 13 for each side.


I made some parts to join the sections together using the Track End parts and pieces of the wire .

I laid the sections of Track on a flat brass bar and inserted one of the parts I made to join them.

OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, October 24, 2019 - 08:24 AM UTC
Next I installed the Track end part as shown.


Repeat until all the sections are joined.
Don't forget to Super Glue the Pins to the End pieces.

Here the Track runs are coiled.

I made the Track into loops, it's easier to install this way.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, October 24, 2019 - 08:32 AM UTC
Now for the actual install.
I started with the Sprocket being shure to get a good fit.

Fit the Track over the Bogies loosely

Next I fitted in the Idler.
It is adjustable

OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, October 24, 2019 - 08:38 AM UTC
Next I rotated the Idler to the rear to tighten up the Track and glued it in place.


Here the Track install is complete, It just needs some touch up paint.


Now on to the rest of it.
Donald
tangodown
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New Brunswick, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 24, 2019 - 01:11 PM UTC
Thanks for doing this Donald. Whilst looking very tedious to make the tracks should be easier thanks to your blog. Cheers.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, October 26, 2019 - 08:54 AM UTC
I have a little more finished on the upper front Hull.
First for the Headlight Guards they give you a choice of Plastic or Photo Etch.
The plastic in this Pic. looks a little heavy but the Photo Etch looks way too thin.

I don't know if anyone has heard this before, but as an experiment I heated the Photo Etch over a candle then let it cool slowly. I found that it would stay in shape better and not spring back so much.


This section is mostly done. I decided on the Plastic Guards, I really don't like Photo Etch except for Screens
OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, October 26, 2019 - 09:03 AM UTC
Test fitted the Hatches.
The Radio Operators fit good

The Drivers didn't.

I will have to do some trimming.


Oh well back to work.
Donald