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Armor/AFV
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REVIEW
Stug III Ausf.G Early Build Review
staff_Jim
Staff MemberPublisher
KITMAKER NETWORK
#002
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New Hampshire, United States
Joined: December 15, 2001
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Posted: Friday, February 09, 2007 - 12:35 AM UTC
Frank builds the Dragon Stug III Ausf.G Early and provides many excellent photos of the in-progess work as well as some of the instruction sheets to illustrate certain points.

Link to Item

If you have comments or questions please post them here.

Thanks!
markm
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California, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 09, 2007 - 01:50 AM UTC
Great review Frank, but where is the paint? :-)
Clanky44
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, February 09, 2007 - 02:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great review Frank, but where is the paint? :-)



I'm currently suffering from a severe case of paint-booth block! It should pass soon... I hope...

Frank
PLMP110
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 26, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 09, 2007 - 05:00 AM UTC
Thanks for the review Frank. I have one of these but haven't started it yet. For some reason I went out and got an M113 and a couple of HUMVEE's and am working on them at the moment. I don't know what I got into me; I've never built anything post WWII.

Patrick
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 09, 2007 - 08:19 AM UTC
Nice review Frank. A couple of small notes.

1. In step 11. Switch partsD23 qand D24, then rotate them 180 deg before cementing to part D5. Only one point of the spare bogie wheel tripod should be to the rear, not two as the instructions show.

2. In step 12. when adding G30 to D2 the instuctions show it upside down.

3. In step 8, do not cementpart C4 or C12. This just makes installing the gun later more difficult.

james84
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Roma, Italy
Joined: January 28, 2006
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Posted: Friday, February 09, 2007 - 03:33 PM UTC
Nice review!
I wanted this model, but it was not yet available in the whole of Italy, according to what the shop assistant told me!
Fantastic work! Looking forward to see it painted and weathered!
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 01:29 AM UTC
Other small notes.

1. The jack bracket's are reversed on the instruction sheet.

2. MA6 is reversed on the directions. It goes on the other side. MA5 is not called out for, but it goes in the place of MA6.

HTH
Clanky44
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 05:12 AM UTC
Hi John,

Thanks for pointing out the details I missed. Part of the learning process in writing reviews is taking carefull notes as you go along. I'm slowly learning, and will hopefully be a bit more thorough with my Aufklarungspanzer 38(t) review, which should be up soon.

Frank
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 07:28 AM UTC
Frank your review was super. Those were just some things I noticed while I built up the kit.
Shadowfax
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Michigan, United States
Joined: November 02, 2006
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Posted: Monday, February 12, 2007 - 08:05 AM UTC
I recall another thread here about bolt heads. It would seem this kit is "ripe for the casting" of bolt heads.

Just something to think about...
Jamesite
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, February 12, 2007 - 04:44 PM UTC
Looks like a really nice kit.
I love the Stugs and Dragon seem to have once again surpassed themselves with another lovely kit.

James
04090
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, March 09, 2007 - 09:14 PM UTC
04090
Frank your review was grate but ? how did you get your tracks to
sit like that on the road wheels,
Clanky44
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, March 09, 2007 - 11:20 PM UTC
Hi Cyril,

Clean out all the tracks, remove any pin marks sand off any imperfections, once you have the tracks all cleaned off, start with the top run, measure the distance between two of the return rollers and glue that amount of tracks together on a flat surface, use a metal ruler to align the tracks. Use a glue that is slow setting, (I use Tamiya's extra thin liquid glue) let the parts cure together for a few seconds and then lift the run off the flat surface and glue it on the previously measured areas, between the return rollers, apply pressure to the top of the run to achieve the desired sag. Then continue adding to it, never glue the drive sprocket in place until the top runs are completed, this will ensure that your guide teeth and the sprocket will mesh. Once you have worked the run of tracks down and around the drive sprocket and return roller, continue to add to the run until all you have left is the bottom run (under the road wheels) measure the run needed and see if it fits the remaining gap in the tracks, if it's slightly off you have sufficient play within this stretch to compress or elongate the run to fit the space accordingly.

Hope this helps,

Frank