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Photography Basics for Modeling

Focusing Distance
The further away your point of focus is to your camera the greater the depth of field will be. Instead of shooting close up, step back with your camera and increase your focal depth. Once your photograph is taken, download it and using your camera’s software, crop in and bring the subject forth.








Set Up...
Shooting models up close creates problems. Depth of field is minimal caused by having to use a small aperture. This forces you to shoot at a slower shutter speed, so any movement in the camera will result in a blurry photo. Whether using a DSLR or a point and shoot, the use of a tripod is highly recommended, you do not need an expensive model, most cost around $50 to $100, about the cost of one model. If your camera has a self timer, use it. Depressing the camera’s shutter release button will always cause motion. Whether on or off the tripod, the use of a 3 to 5 second delay will increase the sharpness of the photograph.



About the Author

About Frank Portela (Clanky44)
FROM: ONTARIO, CANADA

I'm an avid modeller, with about 20 odd years of experience. I belong to a very small group of modellers here in Guelph, Ontario that formed GPMG (Guelph Plastic Modelling Group) over 12 years ago. We have our annual show (WELCOME - Wellington County Modellers Exposition) in the spring. We pride ou...


Comments

Very educational Frank. Thank you very much. Kenny
JUN 03, 2008 - 12:16 PM
Nice article. I often fall into the trap (in many subjects) of "yeah-yeah, i know the basics" but don't always apply them! I tried shooting something outside, and my first set, against the brick of the garage, worked well for the model - nice overcast day, shots good, background terrible! Next time I used a sheet, but it was so reflective it caused all pix to be dark! Lighting is so important! Nice shots, nice models, and nice camera! Thanks for the great info.
JUN 04, 2008 - 01:29 AM
What an absolutely fabulous article. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I just submitted some photos a few days ago and after reading your article I now know what I had done wrong. You have answered many questions I had and filled in some blanks for me. Thank you again..... Now, I have to reshoot all of my pictures.
JUN 04, 2008 - 01:53 AM
Thanks for the comments, Please do not get the idea that I'm camera savy, I myself had to reshoot at least a third of the photos I took for this article! and I'm constantly fighting to get good lighting conditions in my little studio, it's a constant struggle taking photos. This is one of the joys of the digital era, if it doesn't work the first time, delete and try again. thanks, Frank
JUN 04, 2008 - 09:12 AM
Hey Frank, Thanks for taking the time to write & illustrate your article! It's always good to get someone's experiences distilled down to an easy-to-read story. I was wondering about two things, mainly with regard to the photos: In your section about lighting, you have the 2 photos, but could you tell us with which kind of lighting each was taken with? In my past, I've taken slide pictures under fluorescent lighting, and they had a decidedly green tint to them! The other thing, with regard to the photos about using some colored sheeting for a background: the 2 photos of the Zero (it is a Zero, isn't it?) have such different colors with the use of different colored sheets - is that just my perception that the colors are that different, or were some different settings used on your camera to cause that? Ok, I'm done with the nit-picky stuff!!!! A thing that I find helpful in framing the photo, is to set-up the model, and set-up the camera, then just study the picture that I see in the viewfinder. This way, I can see if anything unwanted is within the frame, or if the background "works", or even if the whole "look" captures the feeling I'm trying to convey. I find the extra minutes taken to do this is very worthwhile. And you're right about reading your owner's manual - there is a wealth of info in there! One should study the book, and then study it some more. Again, thanks for the write-up. P
JUN 09, 2008 - 01:55 AM
Welcome to Model Shipwrights Timothy, I'm glad you found the article of use. Regarding the lighting used, I use my flash unit with two flourescent bulbs to either side to diminish the shadows. The flourescent bulbs are 5000K true daylight 26W/110-130V, Lumen:1600. As far as the Zero photos, the colours are the same, it's the background that gives the different colour perception. thanks, Frank
JUN 09, 2008 - 12:44 PM
Thank you Frank! Two completely seperate hobbies that complement each other and can make or break!
JUN 09, 2008 - 01:01 PM
I'm just gonna throw this in as a general comment - I've noticed that digital cameras have excellent (EXCELLENT!!!) color repro (if bright light). Kodak film was always magenta, esp in dark, Fuji Green, Agfa orange, but digital, with be enough light, is "spot on." Interesting comments about bgs, I used a white sheet and it threw the light meter way out, everything came out dark, a blue sheet a little better but not much, and I can see too much and it would start to throw color.
JUN 15, 2008 - 02:30 AM
That was a very informative article. Many thanks for posting it. Hopefully mine and other's photos can improve using some of your information in mind. Raul Guzman Jr.
JUN 15, 2008 - 10:40 AM
Hi Frank You know my thoughts about this feature, but I'll share it with the rest of the crew: Excellent! Thanks for taking your time to do it! Cheers, Rui To Wink The background color you use will have influence on the model own color... as is the lighting. A medium blue works for me, but I also like to see (some) models over white background - but depends on the model: a single airplane or a AFV without a base - not a ship
JUN 17, 2008 - 04:27 AM